DeNucci’s

By Naperville Magazine
April 2026 View more Table for Two

By Phil Vettel

A classic Italian spot in Hinsdale

You may not be familiar with Ballyhoo Hospitality, but the restaurant group has six locations in Chicago, seven in the suburban North Shore (an eighth is opening soon), and now, in our neck of the woods, DeNucci’s, a traditional, family-style Italian eatery that opened mid-January at 8 E. First St. in downtown Hinsdale.

A fortuitous combination of coincidences brought the group to its first west suburban location. “We have friends who live out this way,” says Ballyhoo CEO Ryan O’Donnell, “and they told me there was a place that might be available.”

That place turned out to be Il Poggiolo, Peter Burdi’s already popular Italian restaurant. “I loved the space,” O’Donnell says. “The funny thing was that I’d been here before, when I worked with Jerry Kleiner, who designed the interior. I walked inside and said, ‘Oh my God, I was here in 2005.’ Hilarious.”

Déjà vu aside, the spot seemed ideal. “We’ve always opened in communities that we want to be in, where we’d like to spend time,” he says. “Hinsdale’s very similar to the places on the North Shore where we’ve had success, and the village is very pro-business. It felt right.”

A deal was struck, and Il Poggiolo became DeNucci’s, a concept that already had locations in Lincoln Park and Highland Park. “It’s been such a great concept for us from an approachability point of view,” O’Donnell says. “And there’s not a lot of red-sauce Italian in this area.”

Let’s start with pizza, which DeNucci’s does very well. Executive pizzaiolo chef Salvatore Lo Cascio (who oversees every location’s pizzas) offers two styles: His regular pie is very much in the Neapolitan style, though not as liquidy in the center (for which I’m grateful). The crust is thin but still flexible and boasts a substantial, blistered heel.

But the Chicago tavern-style pizza, available only on Monday (more on that later), is a thing of beauty, with a fingernail-thin, crispy crust cut into squares. People debate endlessly about where to find the best tavern-style pizza in Chicago; Lo Cascio’s version belongs in that conversation.

Why only Monday? The chef’s tavern-style dough requires a three-day cure, and, O’Donnell says, “we don’t have the space to do that every day of the week.” (Plus, it has single-handedly turned Monday into a very busy night.)

The rest of the menu, handled by executive chef Miguel Solorio, offers few surprises but excellent execution. Appetizers include familiar dishes such as arancini, bruschetta, and meatballs in red sauce. I’d guide you to tender grilled calamari, bolstered by some slightly spicy red peppers, and the imported artichokes, swimming in a Vesuvio-style garlic and white-wine sauce and a scattering of sweet peas.

Pasta choices include a classic tagliatelle Bolognese, al dente orecchiette pugliese with spicy sausage, and a meaty lasagna (available Tuesdays) that’s big enough for two.

Among main courses, don’t pass up the branzino, done piccata style (capers, lemon, white-wine butter sauce) or the eggplant Parmesan, with its rich marinara sauce and no shortage of melted and grated cheese. For a side dish, go for the very good spinach aglio e olio.

Desserts are a strength. Various gelati and sorbetti are on offer; the pistachio gelato and lemon sorbetto are particularly good. Everybody does tiramisu these days, but DeNucci’s amaretto tiramisu is excellent, sprinkled with slivered almonds to enhance the subtle amaretto flavor.

The two-level dining room is spacious, with room for about 160 at polished wood tables and a few booths. The upstairs is an extended loft that overlooks all the first-floor activities and is a great people-watching perch. Indirect lighting gives the room a gentle glow, but the energy level is a bit too high for romance.

Finding a parking space on First Street is a matter of good fortune (though you’ll find spaces a couple of blocks away), but DeNucci’s offers valet service right out front.

DeNucci’s actually opened in mid-December, but only for carryout service, a strategy O’Donnell embraces. “It’s how I do all my restaurants now,” he says. “It’s a way to give the kitchen crew a really big runway, so that by the time we open the dining room, they’re ready to hum.”

Photos: DeNucci’s Hinsdale