Divine Heights
By Naperville Magazine
Appears in the July 2025 issue.
By Jeff Banowetz
Journey to Garden of the Gods near the southern tip of Illinois
Illinois is the second-flattest state in the union, which will come as no surprise to anyone driving through it. That is, until you reach the Shawnee National Forest.
The large swath of federal land at the southernmost part of the state consists of 280,000 acres between the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. You’ll find upland forests, grasslands, and rocky bluffs among the designated wilderness and state parks. Quite frankly, it’s much closer in resemblance to Missouri’s Ozark Mountains than anything else in Illinois. About a 5.5-hour drive from Naperville, the Garden of the Gods Recreation Area, located near Herod, is in the heart of the national forest and offers the best option for both enjoying the incredible vistas and exploring the region.
For hiking, camping, fishing, paddling, biking, and rock climbing, this is prime real estate. The River to River Trail, a 160-mile footpath that connects the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, runs through the recreation area. But it’s just one option for hikers looking to enjoy the region. On a weekend camping trip, you can explore the best parts of the park and feel like you’ve traveled across the country—with much lesser crowds.
It won’t take long for hikers used to Midwestern trails to notice another big difference in the area—rocks. A quick geology lesson: Southern Illinois sits on a thick bed of gray sandstone, which dates back more than 300 million years to when this part of the country was an inland sea. The sea eventually disappeared, and the remains created a sandstone plateau. So what happened to the rest of Illinois? Glaciers would later cover most of the state, smoothing it out, but they stopped just short of the Garden of the Gods.
Erosion by wind and rain over the centuries formed the unique hoodoos and other sandstone formations. Visitors today can see the impressive rock architecture rising above the surrounding forests. (The name Garden of the Gods comes from the notion that the formations look as if they were arranged with the help of a supernatural being.) The best views are relatively accessible for most people via the quarter-mile Observation Trail. While it’s a short hike, it does contain some steep grades and steps along the way. You’ll see the area’s most impressive sandstone formations, including Camel Rock, Table Rock, and Devil’s Smokestack.
The Observation Trail is a must-do—but also plan to take advantage of the nearly 17 miles of trails in the park, with additional access to routes that continue through the rest of the Shawnee National Forest. For example, the 1.6-mile Indian Point Trail is a good beginner/intermediate option that winds its way through pine and hardwood timber forest to a lookout spot. You also can spend some time on the River to River Trail in the park; it’s not hard to design a route that matches your interest and ability.
About 60 miles west of Garden of the Gods (and less than 15 minutes south of Carbondale) is Giant City State Park, another option to explore sandstone bluffs and other impressive rock formations. It’s also home to Giant City Stables, which offer horseback riding to explore the area. Some of the state’s best rock climbing and rappelling is available in the park at two locations: Devils Standtable and Shelter No. 1. Experienced climbers will find challenging routes, and beginners can take advantage of bouldering opportunities in both areas. The park also offers fishing, camping, and hiking trails.
Those looking to let gravity do more of the work may enjoy ziplining at Shawnee Bluffs Canopy Tour, located just outside the park in Makenda. The outfitter features eight ziplines—the longest of which is more than 1,100 feet—in a spectacular natural setting with large trees and sandstone bluffs. Participants will traverse 11 platforms and three suspension bridges among the trees as they navigate the route.
SIDE TRIPS
Beyond Garden of the Gods, you’ll find several other recreation areas within the Shawnee National Forest. Known for its clear, rocky springs and sandstone canyons, Bell Smith Springs offers eight miles of hiking trails and a beautiful natural bridge. Pounds Hollow, Lake Glendale, and Johnson Creek each offer swimming, camping, hiking, and boating opportunities. For those interested in technical rock climbing, Jackson Falls has good options.
WHERE TO STAY
Pharaoh Campground in Gardens of the God provides 12 sites on a first-come, first-served basis (no reservations) for just $10/night. If that’s full, try Pounds Hollow Recreation Area just six miles east. Harrisburg is the closest town to Garden of the Gods, about 20 miles northwest of the park, and you’ll find hotels and restaurants there, just in case the roughin’ it doesn’t work out for you. Giant City State Park has 85 campsites, which can be reserved in advance, or you can stay in nearby Carbondale, home of Southern Illinois University, which has a solid selection of national hotel chains. You’ll also find the region has a wide range of cabins, B&Bs, and short-term rentals for those looking for more unique options.
For more information, visit shawneeforest.com, enjoyillinois.com, and fs.usda.gov.
Photos: Illinois Office of Tourism
