Proof No. 5

By Naperville Magazine
June 2025 View more Table for Two

By Phil Vettel

Whiskey and fine dining in a swanky space

It would be an exaggeration to suggest that Bourbon Belly Hospitality’s goal is world domination, but west suburban domination?

Possibly.

In less than 10 years, the group has created five restaurants scattered around Glen Ellyn, Geneva, and Wheaton, including Maize + Mash (the Glen Ellyn restaurant I profiled in January 2024) and the latest, 18-month-old Proof No. 5 in downtown Wheaton (214 W. Front St.)

Though the name refers to the group’s mind-blowing selection of whiskeys (bourbon, rye, Scotch, and more), Proof No. 5 originally was conceived as a very different concept—one that wouldn’t use much whiskey at all. “Prior to opening Proof, we actually were working on a Cali-style, West Coast taco concept for that location,” says Nick Roberge, owner and manager of Bourbon Belly Hospitality. “We did a ton of research, including visiting one of Rick Bayless’s restaurants. And what we took from that [experience] is that in his dishes, all the flavors just pop; every ingredient brings out the flavors of everything around it.”

The taco concept never happened, obviously, but the dedication to flavor remained. Proof No. 5 emerged a kissing cousin to the other restaurants in the group. All Bourbon Belly restaurants are overseen by culinary director Eric Olson and executive sous chef Stu McLuckie, and each restaurant’s menu displays its own interpretation of the chefs’ elevated American, global-influenced vision. But while you’ll find lots of similarities on the menus, they’re not exact copies.

For instance, Proof offers bao buns with Korean fillings (bulgogi, kimchi, gochujang aïoli), compared with M+M’s bao with Nashville-style hot chicken; in both cases, Olson uses the soft bao buns as a counterpoint to the spicy fillings. Shawarma-seasoned chicken, a favorite of Olson’s, is a skewer at Proof, a sandwich at Barrel + Rye (in Geneva) and an entrée-size bowl at Maize + Mash. And, naturally, all restaurants offer a signature burger—sometimes a hefty patty, sometimes a double-patty smash burger.

What really distinguishes Proof No. 5 is its upscale, urban-chic look. Director of operations James Larson says that Proof’s mission was to evoke a city atmosphere, and Proof does so via a sleek mix of marble-look tables, floors, and wainscoting, echoed by gray upholstered seats and contemporary Frank Moth prints. Folding glass-filled doors open to create an unbroken space between the dining room and the sidewalk. There’s even an Insta-friendly background next to the host stand.

Worthy starters include the flatbread, a focaccia-like, slightly chewy crust topped with speck, crumbled goat cheese, pecorino, cherry tomatoes, and apricot pepper jelly—a terrific balance of savory, sweet, and salty flavors. Even better is the tuna crudo, another multilayered dish, pairing the sashimi-quality tuna with garlic chips, candied orange peel, pickled chiles, beets, and a chimichurri emulsion.

Among the handhelds, there’s that double-patty smash burger with choice of cheeses (and other embellishments) but also consider the lobster po’ boy roll, a mashup of a New England lobster roll and a New Orleans po’ boy: butter-poached lobster, Creole slaw, and split-top bun—what’s not to like?

Top-selling entrées include the grouper, served with globetrotting ingredients like andouille dirty rice, spicy chow-chow relish, and sauce choron (béarnaise with tomato). “One of the very few dishes from the original menu,” Roberge notes. “It has a big following; we can’t get rid of it.” Note: “Can’t get rid of it” is a supreme compliment.

There’s an excellent salmon seasoned with Middle Eastern spices and served on a bed of kabocha-squash risotto (actually farro, a nuttier and chewier grain), with smoked tomato, Brussels sprout leaves, and more; this is a superior dish.

Steak au poivre, Proof’s only steak, comes in multiple guises, either as a 10-ounce hanger steak, twin four-ounce fillets, or a 16-ounce rib eye (prices range from $39 to $61). If I were quibbling (and I am), I’d want the peppercorn sauce served in a separate ramekin, the better to retain the crisp on the hand-cut fries and crispy onions that share the plate. (I’d also ratchet up the pepper presence in the sauce; what I got was too tame.)

Pastry chef Laura Jones offers a tidy list of desserts, including housemade gelato and an intriguing-sounding (I didn’t try it) caramel-apple cheesecake. The salted caramel crème brûlée is a well-crafted dish, topped with crisped rice for extra texture, and the lemon-blueberry doughnut holes with lemon curd and whipped cream (six to the portion) are perfect for sharing.

Like other Bourbon Belly restaurants, there’s a cocktail of the month (part of the proceeds go to a local charity), as well as a number of craft cocktails (including the very good, bourbon-based Stealing Home drink). Happy hour runs from 2 to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday and offers five lower-priced munchies.

Weekly specials include 25 percent-off entrées and $10 martinis (Monday), half-price appetizers and wine bottles (Tuesday), and $10 smash burgers and half-off whiskey pours (Wednesday). Brunch (Saturdays and Sundays) offers some regular-menu carryovers, along with brunch standards such as French toast, chilaquiles, chicken and waffles, and breakfast tacos.

Photos: Chrystl Roberge Photography