The George

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December 2025 View more

By Phil Vettel

New downtown tavern honors Naperville’s Georgian history

The dining area in The George

It seems as though there always has been a popular restaurant at the corner of Washington and Chicago in downtown Naperville. Those of a certain age will remember The Landmark, which was followed by Jimmy’s Grill that anchored the space for 24 years.

Then there was Bev’s, a pretty good place (featured on these pages in the May 2022 issue), which lasted only until late 2024. But Bev’s was never designed for the long haul.

When the property was acquired by Empire Restaurant Group (Empire Burger & Brew, the Northcott, Hizemans, all in Naperville), owner Will Cullen used Bev’s as a placeholder, an interim restaurant that would keep people employed while his team readied a bigger concept. “We were going to do a big build-out, add a second floor and a rooftop patio, and call it Cali’s Social Club,” Cullen says. “But as costs rose to $10 million, it just became impossible; it would have taken 50 years to make that back.”

The patio area at The George

Enter The George, an American tavern that required only some clever redecorating and improvements to the existing, ground-level patio. Cullen added a weather-protected pergola and a big fire pit, and The George started welcoming capacity crowds in early October.

The George doesn’t take reservations, so it’s a good idea to arrive early, even though the restaurant has 150 indoor seats. But if it’s not bitterly cold out, the covered patio is a pleasant enough place to wait, especially if you can cozy up near the fire. (By the time summer returns, expect that patio to have been upgraded to a three-season space with full-service dining.)

Cullen’s partner is Dave Miller, a trained chef who owns a private catering company (Chef by Request) and runs Elements, the event space in the nearby Hotel Indigo. Miller brings a chef’s eye to the menu, which sticks to the American tavern label but manages a few offbeat twists.

Thai-curry mussels (front) and Spam frites
Thai-curry mussels (front) and Spam frites

For instance, an order of chips (Ruffle Revival, per the menu) will fetch chips coated with queso, hot honey, and scallions. Then there are Spam frites, panko-coated Spam served with Sriracha mayonnaise.

More recognizable are the crisped shrimp with a buffalo-spiced butter and chunky bleu cheese or the superior Thai-curry mussels, presented in a mildly spicy coconut-curry broth that will have you slurping up every spoonful (grilled bread is provided.) French onion soup, already a house favorite, likely will be even more in demand as temperatures plunge.

The George takes its name from history; there have been a number of important Georges in Naperville’s earlier days (Martin, Knoch, Laird—look ’em up), none more revered than the late George Pradel, a near-lifelong Napervillian (moved here as a child) and mayor of the town for 20 years. A photo of Pradel hangs in the bar, if you know where to look, and at least three menu items bear his name.

The George Dip
The George Dip

First there’s George’s House, a salad of field greens with tomatoes, English cucumbers, and grilled Halloumi cheese. The Badge 13 Burger (Pradel’s badge number during his career in Naperville’s police department) is a double-smash patty with bacon-onion jam with cheese and aïoli (the same double patty forms the basis for the menu’s patty melt.) Best of the bunch is the signature The George Dip, a classic French dip sandwich with shaved prime rib, white cheddar, and horseradish cream, served on French bread with dipping jus. It’s the menu’s must-have dish.

Among other main courses, the steak frites is a solid choice, thanks to a peppery demi-glace sauce and excellent fries (thin-cut, piping hot; you can substitute sweet-potato fries, but don’t.) Even better is the short-rib Stroganoff, served with pappardelle noodles, cremini mushrooms, and an excellent mushroom-ricotta sauce.

There are only four desserts, but the kitchen makes them count. There’s a very good, very large, six-layer carrot cake (big enough for four normal people and two gluttons) and a sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream that Cullen calls his favorite. “I could eat that every day,” he says.

Cigar Box Churros
Cigar Box Churros

The visually arresting sweet is the Cigar Box Churros, a handful of short cinnamon-sugar churros served in a cigar box. Open the lid, and aromatic smoke emerges. A cute idea.

The decor is warm and welcoming, all brick walls and wood trim and framed photos—some historic, some whimsical. There is reportedly a photo of an underwear-clad Jason Alexander (as George Costanza) in the ladies’ room; I did not verify.

The best seat in the house is a large leather booth with soft fabric walls, framed by tie-back curtains. It seats up to 12, but, like every other table in the restaurant, it’s first-come, first-served.

As I mentioned previously, George Prader was Naperville’s mayor for 20 years. I can’t tell you if The George will enjoy comparable longevity, but it’s off to a good start.

 

Photos: The George