Humble Yet Bold

By Naperville Magazine
Appears in the December 2024 issue.

By Peter Gianopulos

Sweetchilango serves up tacos that are family favorites

Say it with us: tacos de guisado. That’s “gee-sah-dough.” Those three syllables should sound downright juicy when rolling off your tongue because a proper taco de guisado spoons ultratender braised veggies or stewed meat into the warm cradle of a homemade tortilla. Nothing crispy here. No charred carne asada ends or crackly-skinned Baja-style fish allowed. A good guisado is meant to dribble; they’re as soft and velvety as a great vindaloo.

Tacos de guisado are the marquee attraction at Sweetchilango, 133 Front Street in Wheaton, the newest Mexican-inspired concept from the Bien Trucha Group, which also runs Quiubo and Santo Cielo in Naperville, A Toda Madre in Glen Ellyn, and Bien Trucha in Geneva. This new fast-casual concept—diners can fast-pass their orders via digital kiosks, sit for a more leisurely meal inside the dining room ordering with their phones, or order from the bar—pays homage to the rich diversity of three-napkin tacos from Mexico City, arguably the guisado capital of the world.

“They’re probably the oldest taco,” says partner Julio Cano. “We grew up eating them because you can braise just about anything. If you go to a family party in Mexico City, you’re probably going to see a lot of different guisados lined up, along with lots of red rice and tortillas.”

Although the culinary team taste-tested 30 to 40 different recipes, Sweetchilango will offer a continually revolving list of eight different guisados—all served on fresh-made flour tortillas. The restaurant’s first lineup includes braised albondigas in a chipotle-tomato sauce. Shredded chicken simmered in a mole pipián sauce with pumpkin seeds and pickled red onions. And a slow braised beef birria—you may recall the tufts of meat from a quesabirria, everyone’s favorite Mexican-style “French dip”—set atop red rice with onion and cilantro.

By the way, the name Sweetchilango is a playful mashup of sweet and chilango, which is a term for people from Mexico City.

Cano says that the entire concept—which the group plans to bring to two additional suburbs—was designed to sidestep as many well-worn taqueria clichés as possible. The design scheme, always a Bien Trucha trademark, doesn’t barter in bright colors or kitschy sombreros. It looks like a trendy Mexico City hot spot—with a sand-swept color scheme and lots of natural light. In addition to the tacos, guests can order their guisados as enchiladas or in bowls. To ensure more speedy offerings, the group’s margaritas are kegged, and the dessert list offers different variations on churro ice cream sandwiches for your on-the-go sweet tooth. You also can grab some frozen burritos and bottled salsas available for sale.

“We believe a good restaurant should appeal to all of one’s senses,” Cano says. “The visual appeal. The music. The feel of the materials we use. But at the end of the day, we’re focused on flavor. This is our way of sharing flavors and dishes that we grew up with and are still close to our hearts.”

Photos: Sweetchilango (food and bar); Jen Banowetz (tortillas)